Diocesan Visit to Zambia October 2009

Saturday 17th OctoberWelcome to Zambia

We landed at Lusaka Airport early, about 6.00 am, groggy after a long flight. As we waited at immigration, a young woman in MU uniform came up to us and gathered up our passports. Slightly apprehensive, we were ushered into the VIP lounge and waited while MU members collected our luggage, got our passports stamped and sorted out all formalities. As we emerged into the arrivals lounge, we were greeted by singing MU members. They sang for about 30 minutes and then presented Rosemary Kempsell with a bouquet of flowers and ushered us into two waiting minibuses, climbing in after us and singing as they went.

Choir lines the road

We drove to Lusaka university and through the grounds to the Commonwealth Youth Centre, where the choir (The Mary Sumner Choir) sang while we filled in forms and were allocated our rooms. I shared a room with Elizabeth Walton, the DP [Diocesan President] of Carlisle diocese. There are two beds one 3’ and one about 4’, both with mosquito nets overhead. There is one towel and no loo paper. Otherwise great!

We were summoned to breakfast –cornflakes with hot milk (apparently this is common in Africa), fried egg, bacon, beans and tomato, then bread and coffee. Most of us went back to our rooms and slept before lunch!

After lunch the UK group met in one of the rondavels in the grounds to sort out name labels and packs of information for the other delegates due to arrive tomorrow. By 8.pm we were all ready for bed.

Sunday 18th October

The buses took us to Lusaka cathedral for the Sunday service and we were greeted like royalty with a double line of members wanting to shake our hands, and singing non-stop. The cathedral is reminiscent of Coventry and was apparently built the same year. At the end of a lively service, the Dean, Charlie, prayed for the poor and hungry and we kept a minute’s silence. How many UK churches would do that? The Mary Sumner Choir were there again and more than half the worshippers were MU members. The Dean asked what we had done with his congregation!

Back to the Centre for lunch. Members from Zambia, Botswana and Malawi arrived and the first contingent from Sudan came after lunch. In the evening, we were divided into our family groups and I had the chance to meet my group, the Cheetahs. They were a lively lot.

Monday 19th October

A green marquee appeared overnight for the first official day of the Conference. We held a Eucharist there, presided over by Dean Charlie, who talked about faith in action. He challenged us that we should not count the number of years we have been members but the number of lives we have touched. Charlie came from Luanshya in Central Zambia, and Dorcas Kandeo, the DP, has known him well since he was young.

The conference opened and Rosemary spoke about Mary Sumner’s vision of the importance of family life. The Cheetahs met to discuss what we hope to achieve. Tabitha, from Malawi, would like a detailed role description! After a session on A&O, Zambia turned the spotlight on their country and their work, and the “Celtic fringe” outlined what MU is doing in Ireland, Scotland and Wales.

Lunch was at tables in the gardens. Standard lunch and dinner is nshima (maize meal porridge) pasta or potatoes, beef, chicken and/or fish, tomato sauce and cabbage or rape. Drinks are bottled water and Coca Cola, Sprite or Fanta. Afterwards, the rest of the Sudanese group arrived, with Soneni Lunga from Matabeleland, Zimbabwe, whom we had welcomed to Coventry in 2003 and who had recently moved back with her husband, now the Bishop.

In the afternoon, the MSH staff gave a presentation on their work, and spoke about the Overseas Fund and where it comes from. It was obviously a revelation to some that it was all raised by members in the UK and Ireland.

Cheetahs led Evening Prayer with very little preparation. Judith from Zambia led and we all sang together.

Tuesday 20th October

Family group Bible study on Martha and Mary. As Judith said “a time to sweep and a time to pray” reflected on how we tell people they are doing the wrong thing, how we sometimes make too much of small tasks and the importance of balance.

A social policy presentation on domestic violence, peace and reconciliation led into group discussion. Albertina from Zimbabwe had some interesting insights, and Vicky from Sudan had some awful case studies. I suggested Vicky and Rachel, the Social Policy Officer, might like to contact the Reconciliation Ministry at Coventry cathedral.

A banner from Birmingham was presented to Barbara from Luapula, Zambia. At lunch time tried to use the computer room but the internet connection was so slow it was nearly impossible. However, text messages seem to work OK.

The spotlight shone on Sudan, Botswana, Malawi and Zimbabwe in turn, followed by a very disorganised market place,. Roberta asked me to sell some MU badges, caps and pens. The price was converted from £ to Zambian Kwacha, but then some wanted to buy in $ and some didn’t have change. Very confusing. Most of the stock went, but I’m not sure who bought it. We hoped the money would turn up later. Later, some lengths of printed material and bead necklaces appeared.

Wednesday 21st October

Met in entrance at 8.30 for a prompt start for a visit to the Asikiwe Women’s Empowerment project in Lusaka. Still waiting for coaches at 9.30! When we arrived, we were turned back. Apparently, the members, who had been walking down the road for miles, wanted to process in. So, with Girls’ Majorettes in front and a band, the coaches drove in procession to the centre. Rows of members walked behind. As we drove down the road, everyone stopped to look and wave, the children ran along beside us and motorists squeezed past in apparent good humour.

On arrival we were ushered into a large field and then into a marquee, where we sat down. Members sat under a huge canopy and the Mary Sumner choir sang again. The diocesan secretary (I think) welcomed us, and there were many prayers, welcomes and songs. Madame secretary then told us all off for not wearing our uniforms, not having our MU prayer books and not having our Bibles. As we didn’t know we were going to a service, it was hardly our fault. Even the other African DPs got caught out! Mrs Elizabeth Banda spoke on the parable of the fig tree. Her main points – are we fruitful? We were not put here to be unfruitful. Celebrating 50 years of membership is worthless unless we have been fruitful in that time. Also, just as we are sometimes disappointed in our children, so God is sometimes disappointed in us.

Following that, we were all introduced and brought greetings from our dioceses. We had to stand outside in the midday sun roasting, while our audience sat under a thatched canopy. We had already discovered that our marquee, where we had been seated for most of the proceedings, had a rather low front, which although rolled up, cut us off at the neck when we stood up, so we could not see what was happening outside without bending down, and presumably the audience could only see our feet. It made hymn singing an amusing experience, but we went out into the sun anyway.

A sketch from “the best drama group in Zambia” (obviously very funny, but lost in translation), was followed by local warrior dancing. Then to a small garden, a sample of bigger things to come, where Rosemary officially opened the centre and unveiled a plaque, and the DP, Freda, who is a doctor and physician to the President and known as the Major General, also unveiled a plaque.

We walked round the site, inspecting the crafts and exhibits. Eventually it is planned to have a garden for parties and weddings, a plant centre, a clinic, play area and craft workshops as well as a shop to sell the produce. Very impressive. As the heat increased we retreated back to the marquee and bottles of cold water. A buffet lunch was provided, by a catering company, with the usual chicken, plus salad, fruit and more vegetables. The members seemed to get the leftovers. After more speeches, prayers and songs, we left. One coach went back via a local shopping centre, which was a mixed experience. The Africans were happy, but for the hot and rather tired Brits it was not very interesting, as it was mainly lengths of material and household items.

That evening it was the turn of England under the spotlight. How to condense all our project work into 15 minutes? Not possible: we all talked too long and ran over time! Afterwards, we had time to plan our entertainment. Pat had brought some sketches (Albert and the Lion) – we found them funny but were worried about African sensibilities, so we settled for Old McDonald, the Gardeners’ hymn and the Gay Gordons.

Thursday 22nd October

Bible study on Good Samaritan this time. A lot of discussion around the concept of neighbours. For the Africans, it was a big step to think about those around them who were not Christian as their neighbours, but for us it was more difficult to care for our communities.

Vicky from Sudan spoke about the future hopes for Sudan. Sarah Jupe gave a presentation on A&O, understanding each other and conflict resolution. After lunch, the spotlight fell on Zambia and then Zimbabwe. A photographer came to take team photos, though some of them weren’t as good as the amateur snaps. After tea and buns, Rosemary gave a talk on leadership, from Nehemiah. The final spotlight was on Sudan again.

After dinner, the entertainment. Lots of singing of different songs, some of which seemed to be common to several countries. Old McDonald got a very good response, with audience getting up to join in and demonstrate their best impressions of chickens, goats, pigs, etc. Everyone in stitches and thoroughly enjoyed it. Zambia did a sketch about family, and Malawi did a good one about trying to carry the church on your own. Everyone was exhausted from so much laughing and we all went to bed in a good mood.

Friday 23rd October

Pat Johnson was unwell on Thursday and Elizabeth went to see her. She thought it was just sunstroke and dehydration, as she doesn’t like heat anyway, and being from Newcastle she wasn’t used to drinking a lot. We left her in bed and went to the cathedral for 10.30 service. Great service and sermon from Robert, the Chaplain, about the balance between tradition and the leading of the Holy Spirit. We need to discern when to challenge and debate (Acts 21-22 Paul debating with James about Gentiles being Christians)and when to bow to authority (cf Jesus “who is my mother?” Matthew 12 48). The Mary Sumner Choir sang us out of the cathedral. We had lunch in a tent outside the cathedral, chicken and rice and chocolate cake all on the same plate! Catherine Mwansa and Gloria want to bring the MS Choir to Coventry, we discussed the possibility of bringing them over for the Provincial Festival. Margaret Beringer likes the idea, but Rosemary is cautious.

The groups from Sudan, Zimbabwe and Zambia had already left for their flights and buses, so it was just us and the Malawis back at the centre for dinner. Everyone went to bed early to pack and clear up. Pat still not very well, and others showing signs of sickness.

Saturday 24th October

We had to be up at 5.00, but I set the alarm on my phone and it was still on UK time, so we nearly overslept. Coaches came at 6.00 and drove us to the airport. I waved them all off, and went to wait in Arrivals for Nigel and Freda and bring them back to the centre. Nigel slept a bit, then we went in search of lunch. After some negotiation with reception, the cook agreed to cook chicken and rice for us – Nigel’s first introduction to Zambian food – then back to the airport for the flight to Ndola. The lounge was full of Moslem families with loads of children, waiting for a delayed flight to Addis Ababa. Our flight was very prompt. We were worried about the luggage, as there was nowhere to leave extra bags, but the aircrew weren’t worried, and we were able to take all the cases.

When we arrived in Ndola, Dorcas and Raphael were waiting for us with other MU members. We were driven by Landcruiser to the Pastoral Centre at the cathedral. There we were welcomed by local members including Janet Munde, a past DP. Over tea we chatted. Some of the members had come a long distance to meet us. We also learnt that Dorcas had left for the bus in Lusaka on Friday afternoon, but it was delayed and she only got home at 2.00 on Saturday morning.

We had the Bishop’s room with en suite facilities, but no hot water in the shower.

Had supper with Dorcas, Justina (worker), Charity (Secretary), and Lucy (trainee Rural Worker). Went through the programme for the week, but with so many places to visit, we were totally confused!

Sunday 25th October

Woken at 6.00 with a tray of tea. We had asked for some warm water to wash in but as there was no sign of it, Nigel decided to brave a cold shower. I waited and in due course a bucket of hot water came along. As well as getting showered decided to wash out some clothes. Had breakfast of boiled egg, bread and marmalade, then off to St Patrick’s, a small church in north Ndola. The building was constructed by Mike Wijnberg, husband of Margaret who had founded the Tailoring School, in the 1950s. We were seated at the front of the church, with two youth choirs one on either side.

It was a great service, very lively, with lots of singing and dancing which we were dragged into and thoroughly enjoyed. There were also multiple collections for various funds – no PCC decisions here; you vote with your cash! Dorcas had a parallel text prayer book, which was useful as the liturgy was in Bemba, the local language, and so were the hymns. The Gospel reading from St Luke was the story of blind Bartimaus. The thrust of the sermon was that we rely too much on medicine or traditional African doctors, spending huge sums on remedies, when we should be relying more on the Lord.

At the end of the service we were introduced to the congregation. We were presented with 2 rugs – one blue with MU on it and one red with WELCOME on it, then taken to the church hall, where we viewed some of the MU craft work and had a meal, which we ate with our fingers. After more speeches, we went on to the home of Ida, whose 4x4 we had been using to travel around in. A nice new house with 3 three-piece suites!

Returning to the Pastoral Centre, we had a shower and rested before the Bishop came to pick us up for supper. I was starting to feel a bit queasy; maybe the heat, too many fizzy drinks or eating with fingers. Just as well we already knew the Bishop and Evelyn, as after a few mouthfuls of supper, I was very ill in the bathroom. Everyone was very understanding, and I sat in the lounge sipping water while the others finished supper. The bishop has 5 children, of whom 3 are at home along with 3 nephews and 1 niece staying. They also have two dogs, one called Foreigner!

Monday 26th October

Visited the bishop’s office to discuss the trip to Kamfinsa, the village where Knight’s Meadow Church in Kenilworth supports a school. The bishop’s driver, Banda, went in search of diesel, as there is a fuel shortage – something to do with the Government not renewing a contract in time. After meeting Diocesan Officials and visiting the Garden of Rest at the cathedral, we left for Kamfinsa with the bishop driving the Land Rover himself. As we drove we passed roadside stalls called ntembo, selling everything from tomatoes and melons to mattresses and armchairs! Finally turned off the main road at an undistinguishable point known only to the bishop, and drove several more miles on dirt roads.

On arrival at Kamfinsa we were met by Stephen Nyirongo, the pastor who had founded the church in the village and who now lives in Kenilworth and goes to Knights Meadow church. About 30 small children greeted us enthusiastically at the school while their mothers looked in through the windows. Then we went to the church for speeches. A new committee for the school project was introduced. We learnt later that the villagers were suspicious that the Bishop was intending to take over the school project. It is currently run locally and is not part of the state system and the church is independent.

On our return to the Pastoral Centre we went to meet members from the Cathedral branch. They showed us some lovely crochet and knitting.

After lunch we left for Mushili where the Margaret School of Design and Tailoring is located, founded by Margaret Wijnberg and run by MU. UK Members have sent many sewing machines there over the years.

On the way, we stopped off at a village called Kibushi with a ramshackle wooden church building. Inside MU are running a weekly feeding station for babies and children, mostly orphans. They are fed a mixture of soya, milk and sugar, which is provided by members.

At Mushili we were greeted as usual by singing and taken to the church. Inside it was dark as there is no electricity there. After the usual speeches, we inspected the handiwork, which is of a very high standard. One of the parishes there regularly wins cups for their craft work.

At the Tailoring School we were introduced to the committee, including Agnes Mupeta, the founder, and previous DP. We were presented with 4 chitengas in blue with MU logos over them. [A chitenga is like a sarong – a length of material to use as a skirt or a sling for a baby among other things.]

On our return to the Pastoral Centre, we had supper, then Dorcas and the committee gave us outfits made by the Tailoring School. I got a two piece outfit, and Nigel a shirt. A very good fit, considering we had never met them before!

Tuesday 27th October

To Fiwila, the mission station we’ve heard so much about, for a two night stay.

First stop is Kalalanga Bwe, a small rural village with a roadside stall selling charcoal and tomatoes. Here MU is helping with a cow project, but when we visited the pen, it was empty! We walked round the village and came to the school where one teacher was teaching 150 children in 3 shifts. The classroom is small with benches made of planks of wood balanced on bricks. I can’t imagine how he gets children to sit still enough to work. On our return to the pen, we found it full of cows! We also saw a building where hens are kept and were given a plastic bottle of milk from the cows. The farmer explained that he had no reserved feed for them and as it was the end of the dry season there was very little for them to eat, so they only produce about 2-4 litres a day. Next year, he hopes to get some dry fodder. We also tried some small fruit called musuku, which grows on the trees and tastes a bit like passion fruit or soft apricots, but with a large stone in the middle. We bought a bag of them for the journey.

Next we stopped at Kapiri Mposhi, the major road junction in Zambia between the road to Congo and the road to Tanzania. There is a petrol station and many lorries park up there, tempting young girls to go with the truckers at night. To counteract this, MU has bought a piece of land nearby which they hope will provide a training centre and school for the girls with the promise of a better future. As we drew up at the site, we saw MU members waiting for us under the trees. They had come from 3 parishes, Kapiri, Kabwe South and Kabwe North and they travelled miles to greet us. They sang enthusiastically and led us into the enclosed site, which was mainly empty but with a few small, single storey buildings. We were introduced to the committee members of each branch. Most of the members are farmers and they brought bags of groundnuts, beans and leaves to show us.

After the usual speeches and photos, we left for the petrol station and used the loos (basic but flushing) then bought some fruit from the street vendors, and had a picnic of bread, chicken legs and musuku fruit.

We set off again down the main road, until Banda turned off and we pulled in at a small village to visit the school, started by MU. The head teacher Melody, showed us around, and explained that they have no electricity so have to do all the preparation in daylight hours or by a candle. We inspected the new school building, including a young builder holding her baby! When the classrooms are finished, there will be one for each year group, whereas at the moment two classes share a room. The school has such a good reputation that parents take their children from other schools to this one.

We left and travelled on over the dirt road at high speed with Banda expertly dodging the pot holes, to Chikupili, where a large crowd awaited us in the dusk. With no electricity, the church was gloomy but full of happy singing members and others. An excellent choir of young people sang as people danced spontaneously. Gifts included a wooden pick axe and mattock which symbolise husband and wife.

During the service, Nigel felt ill, and made a hasty retreat, followed by Dorcas who left him in Banda’s care. After a while, we drove a short distance to a cafe where supper was laid on. Nigel stayed in the Landrover feeling awful. We went inside for chicken and rice, lit by a low-energy light bulb attached to a car battery – very ingenious! When I went out to check on Nigel, he complained about the noise of the chicken in the back. I thought he was getting delirious, but closer inspection with a torch showed that there was indeed a chicken in the back. By the time we left we had two!

We drove on for several miles, passing some of the members who had greeted us, walking home in the dark. Dorcas said they would probably stop over at a village a few miles away, before heading home the following day. There was no room for them in the Land Rover. The road we drove over was like corrugated iron, not good for Nigel’s stomach, but eventually we arrived at Fiwila in total darkness. We were lead to our room by torchlight, and luckily it had an en suite of sorts, which Nigel rapidly occupied! As we unpacked the luggage, Dorcas went to find a doctor. Dr Ella came in to talk to Nigel, and eventually left satisfied that he wasn’t going to die. Lucy brought some tea in a flask and he had two cups with sugar, which helped. We were left with a couple of candles and crawled under the mosquito net to sleep. No water in the taps so just as well we had some gel cleaner with us.

Wednesday 28th October

A cockerel woke us at 5.20 and I looked out to see people already up and about. At 6.00 I asked if we could have some hot water from the large boiler further down the hill. It was too hot to use, so had to wait for it to cool down, as there is still no cold water. Dorcas called to take me to a service at the church and asked if I would read, which I agreed to do. The service was a Eucharist, but because the priest was away, we missed out the actual Eucharist! I followed it in Dorcas’ parallel text prayer book again, but when it came to the reading, there was some confusion as to what the correct one was. Eventually I read from Isaiah.

Breakfasted on cornflakes eaten out of a cooking pot – one of a set. Obviously short of crockery, it was a bit like the 3 bears! After breakfast we visited the local MU members in the community hall and saw their produce – beans, dried vegetables, pumpkin seeds and mushrooms. There were also some knitted baby clothes and sofa covers. Then we went on to Dr Ella’s clinic to inspect labour post-natal wards, children’s and adults’ wards and a well-stocked pharmacy.

Then we walked down to the Rehaboth Community centre, an orphanage run by Sister Agnes and Sister Prudence for 30 children. They are looked after and taught trades and skills. Some of them go to the local schools and many of them find work locally, even at Fiwila. We later met a lad who was now the local carpenter, making stools for the science labs in the secondary school. The orphanage was started by a parish priest and two English ladies but we heard the priest has moved to another diocese and has persuaded the ladies to transfer the funding to his new projects, leaving the nuns bereft of money. Dorcas didn’t know about this, and was horrified. She was going to tell her husband Raphael, who is Chairman of the trustees of the orphanage.

After lunch Nigel was feeling better so we went for a walk round the village. Heard monkeys screeching in the mountains behind the guest house but didn’t see any. That evening, we sat outside on the verandah with the others, waiting for Banda to get back from his quest for diesel, looking at the stars and chatting. Very special time!

Thursday 29th October

Fr. Mark, the priest, took Nigel and me to the orphanage to deliver some cash and some spare clothes for the children, also the bags of beans and nuts we had been given – their need is greater than ours! Then back to pack up and leave Fiwila, which has been a lovely break in the middle of the week and a chance to recharge our batteries. We left in the Land Rover with 12 passengers and two chickens – goodness knows how they managed to survive. They were going back to Ndola as dinner for Faith’s family. Luckily we dropped off one passenger after a few miles.

Our first stop was at Masansa, a small crossroads town. As usual we were greeted by a huge crowd of enthusiastic members and went into the church where we were joined by the parish priest. Justina and Lucy, the workers, introduced us and gave a talk in Bemba, translated by Dorcas, explaining what we had been doing and who we were. As so often in Zambia, the branch leader is an excellent singer, and got the whole group singing and moving round in a slow circle, which more and more people joined including Faith and Charity. Even some young mums with babies strapped to them joined in. After speeches and prayers, the priest took us to his house where his wife served us with cold drinks – very welcome. The room was full of sofas! When we left, we said goodbye to Lucy, who was going somewhere else.

The next stop was Mkushi, where the priest welcomed us and explained that the members were not quite ready yet, so he took us into his house, a small single storey building not much bigger than a shed, but which housed him and his wife, and several children. He proudly insisted on putting on the electric fan, which involved sticking two bare wires into a socket and prodding the fan with a pen!

Later in church, we had lunch with the other visitors, the priest and his wife and youngest daughter. Other members arrived later and had the leftovers. Little lizards ran round the ceiling and one even found its way into a glass. We were given two large earthenware cooking pots and a porridge stirrer to add to our gifts. When we left, we gave the little girl one of the knitted teddies we had been showing to members which made her smile.

Mildred, the voluntary rural worker, left us at Kapiri, where she would hitch a ride home to Chikupili. Her devotion to MU is extraordinary, and she doesn’t even get expenses!

We got back to the Pastoral Centre about 5.30, had a shower and a change and prepared for the Farewell Dinner. Soon tables and chairs were carried outside, fairy lights arranged round the roof and huge quantities of food appeared on the table in entrance. The guest list was extensive, and we didn’t recognise some people in their party clothes instead of MU uniform. Bishop Derek and Evelyn came, with Dorcas’ and Raphael, Dorcas's supportive husband, who had been looking after himself for two weeks, while she was away on MU business Justina’s husband, Agnes Mupeta, the former DP and founder of the Tailoring School, Julia and Elizabeth also from the School, Janet Munde, a former DP, Stephen Nyirongo and Grey Phiri from the Kamfinsa school, unrecognisable in suits, and many others. The cathedral branch leader wore a magnificent outfit with turban. There were many speeches, thank yous, gift giving and photos taken, and a late bedtime.

Friday 30th October

On our final day in Ndola, we walked into town with Dorcas and Justina to do some shopping. We spent some time in the bank, changing some US$ to Zambian Kwacha and making the most of the air-conditioning. We found some stalls and shops to buy souvenirs. On the way back we passed a man carrying two wooden zebras – a bit surreal!

Banda had been searching for diesel all morning. It was getting increasingly difficult to find supplies, so he was going to drive the other executive members home after they had dropped us at the airport. We loaded up the Land Rover with all our luggage, said our goodbyes and drove off for the airport about 3.00. It’s very basic, so didn’t take long to get through the formalities.

On arrival at Lusaka, we phoned Cedric our friendly taxi driver, but had a long wait for him. He finally arrived and took us to the Holiday Inn where we stayed our final night. It was very strange to be back in a European-style hotel after basic accommodation for so long.

The next morning we flew home, reflecting on our experiences and wondering how to convey it all to the people at home. There were so many lovely people, so many spiritual insights, so many thought provoking sights. So much was packed into two unforgettable weeks, which has helped me to understand something of the challenges our fellow-members face overseas, and the commitment and love they have for Mothers' Union. I shall be sharing my experiences at various locations around the diocese during 2010, and of course I should like to thank the many members who contributed to the travel fund to enable me to go.

See the Events Diary for details.

Felicity Hawke

February 2010